Once installed beds are easily dismantled or re-assembled as needed.Attaches by: sliding bed rail hooks, over pins, into groove in headboard and foot-board. Double bed rail hooks, are fastener plates, used to connect wood rails to bed frame.Pins are recessed into post ends of headboard and foot-board.
HOOK ON BED RAILS FOR SIZE BED INSTALL
Complete set includes four plates with sixteen pins. One set will assemble one bed Install Bed Rail Hooks on Wood Bed Frames These sturdy bed rail hooks are made of wrought steel.īed Hooks are sold by the set. This type fastener was used on many vintage beds. So thankyou everyone for your input and help, especially Tony.Double Bed Rail Hooks are a very popular style used to attach wooden side rails to wooden bed frames. bead 1" wide strips gluded over the boards length. The revealed kerf on the edges are hidden because both edges covered with 1/4" Dia. I set the 68" long boards (these are for a twin bed) vertically using my WoodTek TS Tenon Jig and ran the blade at the right depth (1-5/8") throughout the boards width. Anyway, the kerf on these puppies were - you guessed it - 3/32"! I looked through my 10" TS blade pile and landed upon a pair of new Dewalt 10" thin kerf blades (they have "Construction Grade" stenciled on the outside - must have got a deal on them years back). So with THAT peice of information, I decided to cut through the entire width of the rail and no longer needed a 6-1/2" blade to do it with. This told me the arc-shaped mortice did not tightly surround the plates. These bed rails are 6" wide and the originals have an the end-grain kerf stop a half-inch from either side, yet the (installed) plates were "loose", wiggling around the pins that locked them in the mortice. even the guy I talked to on the phone didn't know and is why I phone-called the order in the first place!Ĭould not locate a 6-1/2" saw blade with a 3/32" kerf for under $35 +S&H, so I intended to sort through some 7-1/2" CS blades in the shop. I thought it was odd to include in the online ad, "This Is Not For Original Construction!" for whatever that meant. They are stamp-cut plates 3/32" thick with a few additional pins included beyond what's needed. Bought the Rockler Bed-rail Hooks (thanks Tony) for $12.99 with no shipping. I have not needed cross dowels, the plates have not moved.įinished the job Thursday. I use 2 inch screws to attach the metal pieces to the bed. Making the jig is a little bit of additional work but once you have it, the recesses are very easy to make. You need to check the fit of the two pieces, I've had to file some of them, but otherwise they are great. My bed has them and is around 10 years old with no issues. These brackets look good and are very strong.
On the rail, I don't really use the drill press, I use a hand held drill - it is the least critical dimensionally. You are not looking at the appearance in that case, just getting rid of the necessary material. I usually do those on the drill press with a fortesner bit. You also have to cut a recess for the head of the hooks on the rail bracket and for the hooks to go into on the leg.
You can practice on scrap to be sure the fit is good. Length has to be bigger by the same amount.
HOOK ON BED RAILS FOR SIZE BED PLUS
If the plate is 5/8 wide, the opening must be 3/4 (5/8 plus two times 1/16) wide. For instance, if the template guide is 3/8 and the router bit is 1/4 inch, there is a 1/16 gap. The main part of the jig is just a square hole bigger than the metal plate by the amount the router bit is smaller than the template guide. I tack the fence on with brads so I can pull it and reposition for legs as opposed to rails and for different rail thicknesses. It is the same size on both pieces so you really only need one jig.
I made a jig for my router to cut the recess that shows.
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